Ruby the Landy
  • Home
  • About us
  • 2013 Morocco Trip
  • 2016 Around the World Trip
  • Vehicle
    • Inside the Vehicle
    • Outside the vehicle
  • Kit
    • Cooking
    • Camping
  • Resources
    • Books
  • Link Page

Gorgeous Guatemala.......Volcanoes and lakes...........getting a job!

3/9/2018

5 Comments

 
We spent a couple of days heading South towards the Mexico-Guatemala border. The night before the border crossing , we stayed in a small hotel in the City of Tapachula, so we could get an early start the next day. We crossed into Guatemala at the Ciudad Hidalgo-Tecan Uman border and it was very straightforward. We did not cancel our temporary vehicle permit because we will be returning through Mexico at a later date. We went to immigration, handed in our tourist cards and were stamped out of Mexico. We paid 17 pesos to drive across a long bridge and then we were on the Guatemalan side. Our passports were stamped at immigration and we filled some paperwork in for Ruby. We headed to customs, paid 160 Quetzals (Guatemalan currency) and were issued a temporary vehicle permit for Guatemala.

Our first stop was Quetzaltenango, a city in Guatemala`s highlands, with a back drop of volcanoes. This was our first experience of Guatemalan roads and it took a few hours to go a short distance due to the potholes and hills! Our first impressions of Guatemala were good-the people were very friendly and it was such a colourful place-particularly the  locals in their wonderful  woven traditional dress. As we climbed higher-the temperature cooled which was a welcome relief after the hot and humid climate on the Pacific coast of  Mexico. We only spent one night in Quetzaltenango so didn`t fully get the chance to explore it, before heading to our next destination-Lake Atitlan.

One of the things we spotted as soon as we entered Guatemala, speeding along the roads and noisily beeping their horns, are the colourful chicken buses. When North American school buses reach the age of ten years or 150,000 miles, they are sold at auction. Many of these buses are bought and driven down through Mexico to Guatemala where they are prepared for their second lives. And wow, what a second life they have! In contrast to their modest first lives as yellow buses carting children to school, their second lives are spent stuffed with people, topped with roof racks full of cargo, and driving at high speeds over mountain passes. The old yellow paint is covered with colourful murals and praises to Jesus. One guide describes them as "dressed like a Vegas showgirl" which sums up these colourful buses perfectly! They are called chicken buses because they squash people into them like chickens and chickens are sometimes taken on to them! With the high-speed of the chicken bus and driving techniques of the driver such as overtaking around a blind corner on a narrow road on the top of a hill, a ride on them can be quite an adventure! They also regularly belch out thick black smoke-not pleasant when you are driving behind them! Ruby loved them-and has decided that she needs a paint job when she gets home so she too, can look like a Vegas showgirl!

The roads to Atitlan were better than the previous day-until we began the long winding descent downhill to Panajachel on the North East shore of Lake Atitlan. We could smell the burning of Ruby`s brakes as we inched our way down, trying not to career out of control! We headed around a steep corner and both shrieked as we saw a car and 2 motorcycles had stopped in the middle of the road. Gav was pressing the real brakes and I was pressing the imaginary brakes as we headed closer to the back of the motorcycles! We stopped with millimetres to spare and both heaved a huge sigh of relief, as Ruby juddered to a halt-as if to say-what`s the problem?!

We based ourselves at Panajachel for 5 days, on the shores of Lake Atitlan. Lake Atitlan is a body of water in a massive volcanic crater in Guatemala’s southwestern highlands. Ringed by steep, verdant hills, it’s known for its Mayan villages and volcanoes with striking pointed cones. It was a beautiful place-particularly the 3 distinctive volcanoes around the lake-Atitlan, Toliman and San Pedro. The busy town of Panajachel, where vendors sell traditional textiles, is a popular gateway to the lake. We really enjoyed our time here. We took a minibus to the nearby Sunday market at Chichicastenango, a charming, traditional and authentic traditional Mayan town, the market being one of the best known in Central America. It was probably our favourite market of the trip so far, locals travel from villages throughout the countryside and gather at this market to sell their beautiful handicrafts, colourful textiles, fresh produce, traditional clothing and more at this bustling and vibrant local market. The market was HUGE and it took over the entire central area of town. The small cobblestone streets had been transformed into narrow aisles and hundreds of vendors lined the streets on both sides, selling a variety of traditional Mayan handicrafts and textiles. The streets also featured colourfully painted colonial buildings. We stumbled upon the Saint Tomas church in the middle of the market-a beautiful white building with many people on the steps outside with incense and flowers-creating a colouful, noisy atmosphere. We were exhausted after half a day's shopping and returned to Panajachal with a few souvenirs!

Atitlan was a beautiful lake, with many small villages surrounding its shores. The best way to travel between them was by small boat. We visited the villages of San Pedro and San Marcos-both in stunning locations, with very touristy parts and then wonderful local parts if you walked out away from the dock. To be honest we found the tourist parts a bit pretentious, though it might just be our age! In San Marcos, there were loads of bare footed Westerners, and people strumming away on their guitars, singing about coffee and chocolate! Not our cup of tea!

We also took one of the wonderful, gaudy chicken buses to the town of Tonala for market day-and enjoyed the short ride up the mountain to a local market, with hardy any tourists. At the high elevation-it had a great view of the lake and one of the volcanoes.

On the day of departure from Atitlan, we set off at 7am from Panajachel, to make the long, steep, windy climb back up the hill. We wanted to avoid the traffic-particularly because various vehicles have a tendency to stop just when you have built up some momentum-and Ruby is a large, heavy lass! (I said Ruby is, not Jen!) We put Ruby into low gear and she slowly but surely chugged her way to the top! Our next destination was Antigua city in the central highlands of Guatemala, famous for its well-preserved Spanish Baroque -influenced architecture as well as a number of ruins of colonial churches. We spent a wonderful few days there. We stayed in a casa on the edge of town. It had a beautiful roof terrace with views of the 3 large volcanoes that dominate the skyline around Antigua-Volcan de Agua, Fuego and Acatenango. Fuego is famous for being almost constantly active at a low level. Steam and gas explode daily from its top, a larger eruption occurred in September 2012. As soon as we went onto the terrace-Fuego put on a show and belched a huge cloud of smoke! We also saw it at night-when you could see the red larva at the tip.

We spent a few days wandering the streets of Antigua-visiting its beautiful churches and ruins. We sat in the main square-Parque Central-and watched the people enjoying life. We also had a proper Sunday roast dinner here at a British pub we found-it was amazing and I had brussels sprouts for the first time in ages!

We went on a day trip to another active volcano-Pacaya. After being dormant for a century, it erupted violently in 1965 and has been erupting continuously since then. We hiked continuously uphill for about an hour and a half--coming out into a clearing where it was possible to see the summit of Pacaya (you are not allowed up to the summit due to the active status) and other lovely views. It was a long slog up, given we have not properly exercised for a  while and have been partaking in far too many tacos! A number of guys on horseback follow you up the hill, making eye contact with you as you slowly make your way red faced, puffing and panting, and say "you want a taxi?"! It was funny at first but by the end, it felt like they were trying to psyche me out! Them-"madam-you need a taxi-last chance" me-"I am determined to walk this bloody hill if it kills me-no gracias"! As I staggered on! We loved the views from the top and seeing steam come out of the crater. We descended a little to a vast area where the floor is made of solidified lava. Here we toasted marshmallows in the rocks-the ground was that hot in parts! We descended very quickly (about 45 minutes) and headed back to Antigua.

I (Jen) had an important date in Guatemala City. A job interview via skype with England! I had been preparing for a few weeks, whenever I got the chance, in the most varied circumstances ever! I prepped through earthquakes in Mexico, with active volcanoes blowing outside the window in Guatemala and through the noise that is Mexico and Central America! We booked into a great business hotel in Guatemala City and paid for a small meeting room and extra good wifi. It was a strange experience being interviewed via skype and giving a presentation, however the good news is-I got the job! I will start when I return home at the end of May and am delighted to be going back to my previous place of work.

Feeling happy, we moved on for the longish drive to Coban, where we will spend a night before the short but tricky drive to Semuc Champey.
 

5 Comments
Mum and Dad.
3/12/2018 10:19:45 am

It was interesting to hear about the chicken buses, but not surprising as it is generally known that travel in some countries id decidedly tricky.. A very tricky moment when you stopped just in time around that bend. Had to smile to myself because when I was a passenger and Dad was driving, I made good use of imaginary brakes!! Well done for getting to the top of that incline near the volcano. It brought to mind that steep hill (can't call it mountain!) we climbed to get to that lake in the Lake District. Every time we came to a bend you turned round to say'nearly there'. Needless to say I heard a lot of 'nearly theres'!!! Keep safe and once again well done re. the job.

Reply
Jen
3/12/2018 02:28:25 pm

Haha I can imagine you pressing the imaginary brakes with Dad driving! We love the chicken buses and Ruby has already picked out her colour scheme!! Chuffed to bits about the job! Speak soon.

Reply
MartinDavies
3/12/2018 01:46:07 pm

Brings back memories of my brief time travelling Central America. Wonderful! Congratulations on the job, let me know if you fancy an alternative!

Reply
Jen
3/12/2018 02:30:22 pm

Hi Martin, lovely to hear from you! I remember you going to Central America, it's amazing isn't it? Hope all OK in probation. Jen.

Reply
Jeff and Monica
3/13/2018 05:26:45 am

Great to hear about your adventures. Always wondered where those buses came from! Thought of you as we wandered last week through Mojave and Death Valley and Joshua Tree and Sequoia Parks. Was especially reminded of your time spent on the date farm. Hope your adventures go well, Congrats on the job, and does this mean Ruby goes home? Give us a shout if you go through Maine. -Jeff and Monica, Northport Maine

Reply

Your comment will be posted after it is approved.


Leave a Reply.

    Ruby, Jen & Gav

    General blog about some of the prep we've done and kit we have bought for our trip in 2016

    Archive

    May 2018
    April 2018
    March 2018
    February 2018
    January 2018
    December 2017
    November 2017
    September 2017
    August 2017
    July 2017
    June 2017
    May 2017
    April 2017
    March 2017
    February 2017
    January 2017
    December 2016
    November 2016
    October 2016
    September 2016
    August 2016
    July 2016
    June 2016
    May 2016
    April 2016
    March 2016
    November 2015
    September 2015
    June 2015
    May 2015

    Categories

    All
    Adventure Travel Show
    Antarctic
    Antarctica
    Argentina
    Bolivia
    Caribbean
    Carnet De Passages
    Colombia
    Dancing
    Ecuador
    Hurtigruten
    Pacific
    Peru
    Routes
    South America
    Trekking
    Whale Watching

    RSS Feed

Powered by Create your own unique website with customizable templates.